Here's to the restaurants we love
and pour one out for the restaurants that closed
In this newsletter: supporting restaurants, women who give back, and happy holidays
Due to a combination of snowy weather and a blazing radiator, I have been feeling particularly cozy this week (read: lazy). Instead, of cooking, I’ve been scouring my pantry and experimenting with putting together ‘fancy toasts.’ Fancy toasts are my definition of anything that goes a step beyond bread and butter. In this case, I’ve been trying (and failing) to combine ingredients into something spectacular. I had something close to a win when I combined these canned cockles (which I could eat straight out of the can) with romesco, fresh parsley, and preserved lemon, but it proved too salty (could have used some acidity). I made something nearly delicious when I combined smashed avocado, chili oil, and salmon roe (it could have used a fried egg). But, ultimately, I was left standing in my kitchen, scratching my head quizzically, and wondering just how chefs intuitively know what flavors to pair together.
Too often I take restaurants for granted but during this pandemic, I’ve watched as some of my favorite local eateries have struggled to survive. There was a French restaurant in the East Village called Jules Bistro that played live jazz on any given night. I had been going to this hole-in-the-wall spot for years, namely because I couldn’t get enough of their garlicky-buttery escargot. I’ve celebrated birthdays at Jules Bistro, took my parents to eat their steak and bearnaise sauce, crashed one of my sister’s dates there, heard my boyfriend say “I love you” for the first time while sipping wine at one of their tables. Jules Bistro has since closed permanently due to the pandemic. When you lose a restaurant, it’s more than just losing food — it’s losing a part of your heart.
Here in NYC, it was announced on Monday that restaurants would have to close indoor dining. For many restauranteurs, this mandate is paramount to a small business death sentence. As Queens’ restaurant, Trattoria L’incontro, brilliantly demonstrated, it is a joke to expect people will eat outside during a snow storm. It’s estimated that over 1,000 New York restaurants have closed since the pandemic began, which is truly heartbreaking. Restaurants are the fabric of this city and so I am dedicating this newsletter to them. From how to support restaurants to the restauranteurs giving back, if it wasn’t for restaurants, I’d be condemned to an eternity of eating terrible fancy toasts.
How to support restaurants this winter
Both in NYC and across the country
I have a lot of gratitude and love for the restaurants whose steamy dumplings, wood-fired pizzas, and handmade pasta have brought me joy during these dark times. From the brisket pho at Astoria’s District Saigon to the birria tacos and consommé at the Chinelos Birria Taco truck in Long Island City, to the fried egg sandwiches in the East Village’s Ukrainian diner, Veselka — NYC restaurants have allowed me to travel the world through my palate. I know that’s a cliché thing to say, but when you’re a travel editor who hasn’t traveled in nearly a year, you take it where you can get it. Here are some ways you can support restaurants near and far:
Rally for Restaurants - A grassroots initiative encouraging people to order takeout and buy gift cards from restaurants. They’re donating $1 for every gift card purchase to Toast.org, which directs funds to charitable organizations working on issues around food.
Independent Restaurant Coalition - This coalition is putting pressure on Congress to pass the Restaurant Act, which would provide independent restaurants with the resources and support needed to get through the pandemic. Take action by telling Congress to pass the act.
World Central Kitchen - Their “Restaurants for the People” program pays local restaurants to prepare meals for neighbors in need. WCK has partnered with more than 2,000 restaurants across the country to deliver over 12 million meals. Through these 12 million meals, WCK has put $135 million directly back into local restaurants. Donate to support their incredible work.
Buy directly - From t-shirts to meal kits, restaurants are getting creative with how to generate revenue. Many third-party services (Grubhub, Seamless, Caviar, etc) take a big fee from restaurants when you place an order. Consider purchasing directly from your favorite restaurant instead.
Spread the Love - Tell people about your favorite restaurants! Encourage others to try that burger or order that ramen. Word of mouth can help keep a restaurant in business.
Women to Watch: Moonlynn Tsai & Yin Chang
Meet the couple feeding New York’s elderly Asian community
Earlier this pandemic, I had the joy of interviewing Moonlynn Tsai and her partner, Yin Chang, for Zagat. Moonylnn is the co-founder and operator of NYC-based restaurant, Kopitiam, while you may recognize Yin Chang as an actress from Gossip Girl and The Bling Ring. Together, both Moonlynn and Yin founded the grassroots non-profit, Heart of Dinner, which is dedicated to feeding and supporting New York’s elderly Asian community. Read the full interview here.
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Things to do this week
The drama of Elf and the headache-free joy of mocktails
Watch Netflix’s The Holiday Movies that Made Us, which takes you behind the scenes of some of the most beloved Christmas flicks. It ends up Elf took some serious inspiration from Rudolph the Red Nose Reindeer and faced legal issues in the making of the film. Drama!
Read this article from The Cut, which explores the ways Instagram — and how we use it — has changed during the pandemic. Spoiler: people have gotten a lot more judgmental on social media and are now reclaiming their space by uninstalling the app. Try this non-alcoholic aperitif, Ghia. I know it seems crazy to opt for non-alcoholic during a pandemic, but after your third wine-fueled hangover of the week, it’s nice to enjoy a mocktail on that next Zoom happy hour. Take my 2-minute newsletter survey to help me keep this weekly email exciting. For the ones who took it, your feedback was awesome - thank you!
Happy holidays!
From us and our distracted pets
Thank you for subscribing to this newsletter and reading my words! I hope that this newsletter brings you as much joy as it brings me to write it. Next week, you won’t be getting a newsletter from me as chances are I’ll be wearing matching pajamas, eating Christmas cookies, and spending time with loved ones at home. Until next time, wishing all of you a warm, happy, and safe holiday!